Four Thousand Islands, Laos

Well, maybe ‘smaller and smaller’ isn’t the right phrase to describe our first Laos day’s transport. ‘Tighter and tighter’ would be more fitting. We went from train to taxi to mini-bus, to mini-bus, to tuk-tuk to sawngthaew (those ubiquitous small trucks with a covered seating in the back). Our 100km ride from Pakse to Ban Nakasang took about 3 hours in a sawngthaew. I was lucky; I stood on the metal grid at the back. Sue was jammed in with everybody else and their packages in the hard wood bench seating.

Can We Fit in Three More and the Piglets?

The piglets were left behind at the bus depot as there just wasn’t enough room.

We arrived at  Ban Nakasang where Sue immediately bought a large can of  Beer Laos to ease the pain. From there we took a boat to Don Khon, one of the Four Thousand Islands spread across a wide point in the Mekong River. We were delivered to a guesthouse where we spent the next three, no four, ?, days(whose counting?) cycling, swimming, lounging, eating and drinking large cold bottles of beer.

Looking Upstream

Looking Downstream

From our deck we could watch the river flow and the activity on the 100 year old French Bridge, built for the small railway that ran over Don Khon and Don Det, bypassing the incredible Li Phi Falls.

Li Phi Falls

We bicycled to the falls, which are spread over a large area, and found our first swimming spot.

Swimming Spot

The photo shows our first sighting of the beach, with a group of kayakers just leaving. We swam here for a short time but later discovered our favourite beach…

Second Beach

Look at all that sand! And not a volleyball net in sight. Probably as it was baking hot out there. We’d cycle here, have a cool one at one of the two food places and then laze in and around the water.

We enjoyed Don Khon and it was a bit hard to leave. But we’d seen most of the sights, enjoyed the relaxation and felt it was time to move on.

Collecting Coconuts

Yangon and Gone; Bangkok and Beyond

Leaving Nyaungshwe  we drove through some of the most beautiful scenery: pine tree covered high hills, with incredibly deep gorges. On the switchbacks we could see vehicles far below us. Another night bus ride and we arrived in Yangon at 3am.

We spent one more day in Yangon before flying back to Bangkok. I wanted to do some shopping in the old market but it was closed for the full moon. And the new market just didn’t have what I wanted. And the heat drove us back to the guesthouse for an afternoon nap.

We emerged at dusk and set off with Michel from Montreal to the Strand Hotel, a colonial classic. We’d promised ourselves drinks at the Strand as a treat before leaving Myanmar. The evening was beautiful. As the sun set the old colonial buildings glowed in the the twilight.

Colonial Building

The Strand Hotel bar was empty when we arrived. Maybe not surprising considering the price of the cocktails but we had promised ourselves…

The Cocktails

By the time we left the bar was packed with a tour group.

Unfortunately it seems the powers that be in Myanmar would prefer tour groups. Easy to control. Lots of money going to government run tours…

I’m hoping for the best for Myanmar. I felt very sad to leave. The people we met were generous and loving. If all goes well we’d love to return, visit places we missed and re-visit many of the places and people we did see.

The flight to BKK was quick and we were back at our hotel by noon. We sorted ourselves out, made some decisions and the next day boarded a night train for Ubon Ratchatani, our stepping stone to southern Laos.

Going to Laos!

A train bunk big enough for me to stretch out in! Nice. And the next morning we were on our way to Laos. And the transport got smaller and smaller…

Inle Lake and Around

From Hsipaw we took another overnight bus to Nyaungshwe. We were dropped at a highway junction and took a taxi into the town. As always we arrive sometime in the wee hours but our guesthouse lets us in and we’re soon all sorted out and exploring the town.

Nyaungshwe is connected via canal to Inle Lake, one of Myanmar’s top attractions. But unlike Bagan it’s much more laid-back and our guesthouse is in the monastery district, so is quietish with the ringing of bells and the murmur of monks in the background.

Our first day we rent bikes and with a fellow traveler pedaled first to a hot springs for a relaxing dip and then to a village that specializes in yellow pea tofu. Here we watched them make several products, snacked and purchased a few for later.

Making Tofu

We then crossed the lake with our bikes on a long-tail. The ride on the other side was lovely with sugarcane fields and waving palms. We stopped at a winery but were disappointed with our Chardonnay tasters. Stick with the beer!

Next day a group of us hired a boat and did an extended tour of the lake. We stopped at villages, a market, pagodas and several craft shops. Mostly though it was the boat ride, seeing the floating gardens, people fishing (check out the unique paddle technique) and villages on stilts that were the most interesting.

Morning Fishing

Paddle Technique

We also visited the local market, where Sue held a baby while our fruit was prepped for us.

Who's Looking at Who?

Lastly we took a tour led by a young man just starting his guiding career. He took us to several nearby villages. At the first we explored a large cave used by Buddhists. We went into several branches and saw where a local king had hidden during the Japanese invasion. We also saw another cave where an elderly monk has been living the past 54 years.

Home in a Cave

On the way back I was presented some flowers by a couple of young girls, who continued following us, giving us various bits of plantlife.

New Friends

Leaving Nyaungshwe was hard. It was a relaxed place to be and our guesthouse and its staff were super helpful and friendly.

Like many of my Myanmar posts I’ll have to update this later as there are so many things being left out. Including a photo of my having a beard trim, seated in one of the oldest barber chairs I’ve seen. And, I’ve just got to say, there’s nothing like a cold Myanmar draught after a hot day of cycling, boating or walking!

 

 

Hsipaw and Surroundings

We spent about 12 hours in Mandalay, enough time for beer and dinner and a wee nap before our 4am train departure to Hsipaw. This journey is what Paul Theroux descibes in The Great Railway Bazaar, although when he did it no foreigners were allowed to do the trip.

The old narrow gauge railway is quite exciting: the cars rock and sway like ships in a heavy sea. Bushes scrape along the side of the slowly moving cars and the countryside changes from plains to high hills. One of the trip’s highlights was passing over the Penn State Steel bridge, where the train slows to a snail’s pace so as to not cause the bridge to collapse.

Going Over the Gokteik Viaduct

Hsipaw is a smallish town, known as a starting off point for treks into the surrounding hills. It’s situated along a river which produces cool mists in the mornings.

Trees in the Mist

 

We spent a couple of days exploring the town, its markets and nearby surroundings. One afternoon I wandered up to the teak monastery and was invited in for tea at a small pagoda by an elderly monk who smoked a big fat stogie while we conversed via sign language.

Monk at Tea

For our last two days we went on a trek to a hill village and back. We spent the night in the village chief’s home, with his extended family, sharing their food (super delicious and lots of it!). Although it was a hot hike up the journey was well worth it. We learned lots from our guide and the stay in the hill village was beautiful.

village at Dusk

Village Chief and Family

The hike back down the next day was much easier and quicker. Along the way we passed through several villages and the scenery was… pastoral:

Water Buffalo Close-Up

We left Hsipaw upon our return from the trek but would love to return to do more trekking, going further into the hills.

Bagan

Monks in Monastery, Bago

Continuing on the theme of more pics, less words and load ‘em up before the battery dies…

From Ha-pan we travelled by bus; first to Bago and then caught a tuk-tuk to the main highway. In Bago we had a few hours to kill so did a quickie tour. Above is a photo of a monastery with novices praying. Novices who fall asleep get whacked with a rolled up paper.

Below is a giant 100 year old python, resting his weary non-bones at a pagoda. He also had a swimming pool but was sound asleep when we saw him.

Pagoda Python

While waiting for our over night bus to Bagan we watched the water buffalo carts going home at sunset.

Water Buffalo Carts at Sunset

Bagan is one of the top tourist sites in Myanmar, a huge plain filled with pagodas and stupas. We spent three days there, riding bikes and exploring. Although it was interesting, and at times stupendous, it was by far and away the most touristic place we visited with many vendors trying to sell us knick-knacks.

Large Pagoda at Bagan

Sunset View

In one of the pagodas we saw statues of ancient, pre-Buddhist, Nats. There are many types of Nats and they still hold a special place in Myanmar worship.

Nats

From Bagan we took a rugged bus trip to Mandalay. The road was rough and sometimes the bus actually forded streams rather than cross on rickety bridges!

Hpa-an

From Mawlamyine we traveled by riverboat to Hpa-an. The landscape gradually changed from flat delta land to karst mountains.

Karst Landscape

We spent a day touring the local sights including several caves and an amazing balancing rock pagoda.

Kawgun Cave

Kyauk Kalap

Saddar Cave and the Secret Lake

We had been invited to visit a local Buddhist-Hindu festival by one of the sand painting designers. When we arrived they were giving away free food. We also made a guest appearance lighting candles; we were both photographed and videotaped!

Free Ice Cream

Reciprocal Photograph

Hand Turned Carousel

The man who kept the merry-go-round going looks as bored as a carny worker anywhere in the world!

Mawlamyine, Myanmar

We continued south to Mawlamyine.

Smallest Room Ever!

We spent one night in this tiny room, a mezzanine level hung out over the reception area. Barely enough room to close the door if we were both standing.

Our Favourite Local

Reclining Buddha and Waterslide

Monk Trying for Glimpse of Kickboxing

We visited a Buddhist site hosting a large festival. We walked inside the reclining Buddha but missed out on the kickboxing as we were so hot and tired by then.

Horse Cart on Bilu Kyun

We took a day trip to an island, Bilu Kyun, where we traveled by horse cart and bus.

Making Elastic Bands

We visited several home-based businesses including one family making elastic bands. Above: the coloured rubber dries on wood sticks before slicing.