Near Our Hotel

Our room is tiny with an odd angle into which our double bed barely fits. Also it’s south facing with a barely functioning aircon unit. A very tired and raspy Sue flakes out for the afternoon and I go exploring, heading up the alley and away from the throngs of backpackers.

This is the part of SEAsian big cities I love: the narrow, twisting passages. I keep track of right/left turns and eventually find myself back on Khao San Road. Throngs of people wander the almost trafficless street which is lined with bars, shops, hotels and cafes, all doing a brisk trade. I walk to the other end of the street, cross the road and continue down another lane that twists and turns until I find myself on another main road and passing by the National Gallery with a sculpture of a Buddha head on the grass out front.

Lolling Buddha Head

Filled with newfound knowledge of our neighbourhood I return to our room hoping to lure Sue out for dinner. No luck. She’s hacking and wheezing, barely able to speak. So I venture forth again to refind a vegetarian menu I spotted earlier. I have a fine little meal and enjoy watching the variety of folks passing by.

I return to the room to find Sue watching the Discovery Channel: Giant Killer Catfish! Nasty Microbes!

Next morning I lead Sue off up the lane and beyond. She wants to walk and we continue until we spot a wat (pagoda). Where we attract the attention of several ‘off-duty policemen’ who insist that today is a Special Day (have we not read the papers, seen it on TV?). Sue is dubious and wants to get the heck away from there but I allow one to lead us to a state tourist office where I check out their story of cheap tuk-tuk fare to see the sights. All sponsored by the state as a ‘tourist promotion’. According to the agent it’s all legit. So we meet a young tuk-tuk driver who quotes us a super-low price and off we go. He’s a very nice lad and takes us first to the Giant Buddha.

A Very Tall Buddha

Amazing… all covered in gold leaf, continually applied by worshippers. Then on to the Lucky Buddha (only open today! A beautiful Buddha, this one of solid gold. But a man inside tells us how Today Only! Factory Outlet Tailored Goods Duty-Free! Sue’s eyes are rolling in a ‘I told you so’ fashion. Sure enough our driver takes us there, but tells us we can leave as soon as we want. He just needs to get his cheap fuel stamp. A salesman gives us a spiel but when Sue starts hacking and rasping he’s looking nervous. We’re out of there in no time at all and they didn’t even want our measurements for a tailored suit.

Lucky Buddha

We get our driver to drop us in Chinatown where street markets line the road (it’s Sunday market time). We walk into an alley and spend the next hour walking in a dense stream of shoppers checking out the bargains. We buy iced coffee and sliced papayas. But Sue’s having trouble swallowing and is beginning to tire. So we start walking back, and as she tires we begin looking for a ride. Tuk-tuk drivers want to charge us way too much. Taxis aren’t stopping… finally we negotiate with a tuk-tuk to return us to Khao San.

Chinatown Crowds

While she snoozes I wander off again and this time find the river and the ferry docks. I walk along the river, through the university and then a large wat. Along the road vendors are selling amulets and I notice some people have little magnifying glasses out to check the quality.

Amulets

I continue walking, exploring the perimeter of the backpacker area.

Archiutectural Contrasts

Relaxing in the Shade

Alley Scene

I walk back towards the backpacker area and then dodge into a narrow passage along a canal. People point me in the right directions and I find myself in yet another wat (someone said there are 400 in Bangkok) with a huge golden stupa. Eventually I wander to where the people are gathered to hear the monks and pray to another amazing, golden Buddha statue.

Praying

Back in the backpacker zone I spot a bar with cheap big beers and settle down to watch the passing throngs. I sit back just far enough to avoid the street hawkers and catch a breeze from the overhead fans (a trick I learned in Hanoi). I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many dreadlocks in such a short time. There are even dread extensions for sale. My favourite moment though is seeing the rubber chicken hawker (a long gray haired older Thai with a pirate’s hat) meet the hammock salesman, equally old and very wrinkled.

Street Vendor on Khao San Road

Dread Extensions

For Lucky Fans

Considerably relaxed after two big beers (and no lunch) I head back to the hotel. I persuade Sue to emerge for food and we have a lovely dinner in a tree covered courtyard  down the alley from our hotel. Sue’s amazed at my capacity for Thai food, which I’m enjoying every hot moment of.

After a bit more of the Discovery Channel’s microbes (no kidding) we end another hot day, our alarm set for an early start.

On Jan. 9  we visited the Myanmar Embassy to get our visas. We got up at dawn and headed down the passageway to have a real coffee (not Nescafe) to get us started.

Then off to find a taxi. Harder than we expected. Most of the drivers wanted to negotiate a flat rate and we insist on using the meter. Finally we flag down an obliging driver. Off we go and right into a massive traffic jam. Our driver spoke little English but seemed friendly enough. He kept saying “MBK” which I thought was Thai for ‘embassy’ perhaps (we’d shown him the address, written in English). When he dropped us in the centre of Bangkok at the huge MBK mall we realized his/our mistake.

We went to the Tourist Info, where she wrote the address out in Thai, along with a “Thank You!”. We flagged another taxi and set off again. This driver also spoke little English but we managed to communicate with his basic English, sign language and finally with the help of a basic English/Thai glossary on our map. We had a great time looking at his family photos, listening to his CD of English language music and he got us to our destination in almost no time at all.

A Popular Line-up

Only to see a Huge Line, leading to the embassy door. We got our paperwork done at a photocopy shop down the street and then joined the line. The line led to a window where we picked up a number. Then we waited for our number to be called while standing next to a lovely fan. While there we met a Canadian couple who’ve travelled in SEAsia for years. They provided many tips, including info about a secluded beach in southern Thailand. Finally, just before the embassy closing time we reached the wicket where we surrendered our passports and applications. Tomorrow we return for our visas.

Our new Cdn. friends mentioned we could catch a boat back up the river to Khao San. What a difference! A one-stop train ride and then onto the ferry. Cheap, breezy and quick. Thank goodness for fellow travellers!

River Transport

We arranged for our hotel to send us to another location so that we could have a working aircon. That problem solved I went out for dinner and picked up some take-out for Sue. I sat and watched the scene again, but this time with sketchbook and pen handy.

Tonight we’re in our new room (with working aircon), got our visas and enjoyed several trips on the river. Photos and text to follow soon. And then off to Myanmar.

Exhausted

Our first Bangkok hotel, The Silver Gold, was close to the airport. The room was basic but comfy. The airport (and therefore LRT) shuttle was impressive. The desk staff were jaded and somewhat less than helpful though. But we did get a good night’s sleep.

A Real Bed!

The amazing Bangkok transport system, featuring the LRT, made it easy to zip into town. First we enjoyed reasonably priced refreshments in a combo cafe/computer shop. The hanging shades (below) house little speakers for individual sound at each table. We only tried the coffee, Thai tea and a WiFi connection.

Coffee and Computers

After exploring a huge modern mall and getting our bearings we walked to the Jim Thompson House where we joined a guided tour of the expat American’s intriguing home. It is built from many smaller houses, disassembled and then joined together. He disappeared in Malaysia in the ’60s, leaving the house and art collection to a nephew who donated it to the Thai state. Now the tours, cafe and gift shop proceeds all go to local charities.

Jim Thompson House

Note the trapazoidal shapes, a result of no nails being used in the traditional Thai construction. Most of the wood is teak.

Open Interior

The house is beside one of Bangkok’s canals. We walked along the canal, enjoying the quiet, the passing boats and the sights. Here we found a quiet corner of an older Bangkok.

Boat on Canal

We walked past wee homes and shops. Including a couple of goats on a platform over the canal.

Goats and Boats

Canal-side

After leaving the canal we found one of the ubiquitous street food stalls in an alley off a busy street. We first stopped for a cold beer but after sitting awhile and enjoying the ambience (and noting how busy they were and how much good looking food was going by) we decided to eat. It was all we hoped for: papaya salad, hot and spicy prawns…. we’d arrived….

yes! Street Food

After our meal we wandered back to our starting point, passing the Arts and Cultural Centre on the way. By the entrance a bit of street art caught my eye. Thailand, and Bangkok especially, has a reputation of being a SEAsian arts centre.

Bear's Head

Back at the train station we saw one of the ubiquitous portraits of the king, glowing in the twilight.

The King of Thailand in the Station

We caught the train and LRT back to what we thought would be a stop we could walk back to our hotel. But upon leaving the station we were approached by a Thai woman who told us it would be too far to walk and that no taxis stopped there. We were joined by a Thai gentleman and between the two of them they tracked down the location of our hotel and gave it a call. We were advised to get back on the LRT and go to the airport where the shuttle would take us back to our hotel. Once again we were impressed how even in a huge city like Bangkok the Thai people are so friendly and helpful.

Upon returning to our hotel we noticed a street market was set up so after dumping our stuff we returned outside for a quick perusal of the night market. In amongst the food and goods stalls a lone Thai man danced on a small stage to blasting disco. Strange and surreal but all part of the fascination.

Night Street Market

Today we moved into the backpackers’ quarter. A small funky hotel in the midst of the touristic frenzy. Here I sit with a cold beer (which allows me free WiFi) while Sue rests in our tiny room, beset by a nasty sore throat. Hopefully she’ll recover soon so we get back into the swing of things…

btw: if these posts seem disjointed and/or odd it may be me getting used to Sue’s wee eMachine or it may be me trying to get as much done as possible before the free WiFi time runs out! And once we’re in Burma we’ll likely have no internet connection for that month or so. But we will try and keep posting photos and a few words about our two month journey. |Please check back for posts once in a while, and comments are appreciated! Cheers!

Paris by Night

(NB: most of the horizontal photos expand if clicked on)

I got a bit behind with the weekly updates so this is bi-weekly divided into two parts, starting with Paris. No, I’m not in Paris, but it’s been on my mind for a couple of weeks. I recently finished reading Parisians. Also the Occupy movement has me pondering various revolutions.

Parisians

Parisians; Graham Robb; Kindle Edition, 2010

Why oh why did we only spend a couple of days and not a few months in Paris. Answer: time and money. I wish I’d read Parisians first though. Even if you’ve never been to Paris and don’t plan on going this is a fun read. Graham Robb writes chapters about different personalities and eras in Paris, starting in the late 1700s with a young Napoleon. Not all these stories feature famous personalities, but each chapter evokes something about Paris and its evolution. Some chapters have a distinct tone, especially the ones focussing on Juliette Greco and, later, the May ’68 riots. Sometimes you don’t find out who the person he’s writing about is until part way through the chapter which leads to little ‘aha!’ moments. At one time Paris was the largest city in the world, and for centuries the largest in Europe. There’s layers upon layers of history and many stories. I found myself using Google maps and street views to find the places he writes about. There are some photos in the book but I also found more on the ‘net, which helped me visualize the places and people. Although every chapter is not equally gripping I never lost interest. The downside of Parisians is that now I’d really like to fly back and look for the places Robb writes about. Rating: 8/10

Faces in the Paris Night

A few posts ago I wrote about Paris 1919, another book I enjoyed. It’s not so much about Paris but about a time in history, the post WWI peace conferences, that had a huge impact on our modern world. Also, a few years back I read Simon Schama’s Citizens: A Chronicle of the French Revolution which provoked me to reconsider the French Revolution, circa 1789 – 1799. The French have certainly have had their share. The barricades are thrown up, the cobblestones torn up, hurled and blood runs in the streets. Has it all been worth it? Well… they did get rid of their monarchy. And produced some revolutionary rhetoric and graffiti (e.g. L’émancipation de l’homme sera totale ou ne sera pas. - The liberation of humanity is all or nothing). Yet their politicians continue, as most politicians do, to make outrageous decisions and mistakes. And people, no matter where and how, will continue to display wildly divergent moral and ethical values. For every liberal mind, for every lover of beauty, there’s at least one racist who’ll happily turn over their Jewish neighbour to the Nazis or grumble about how Paris is no longer French because there are so many immigrants. And now those cobblestones torn up from the Paris streets are sold as souvenirs or bookends on eBay.

Reminder of the Past

The Global Village is ripe for revolution. Sometimes it works. Tunisia. Maybe Egypt. Syria’s having a rough go. Libya might make it. Cities are Occupied. The forces of law and order are caught on video being needlessly brutal (UC, Davis). Lawyers discuss whether protesters should stay or should go. Sometimes the message is transmitted and people support and/or join in the cause. Sometimes the message is lost in the hubbub and people are left puzzled and/or frustrated.

I found this story, from a BBC blog, about the New Left quite illuminating. Although focussed on UK events the influence of Paris 1968 hovers. The videos are very educational and entertaining too! The message is clear though. The workers are not interested in elitest posturing while they’re struggling to make a living. They’ll go home and whine and wine to placate their angst but taking to the streets is not an option when they’ve mouths to feed and desirable goods to consume.

The almost instant communications these days take discussion of the issues out of the hands of the mass media and puts it into the hands of the people. Knowledge and intelligent use of that knowledge could go a long ways to transform our world. Especially the Third World which is attempting to catch up to the First World, sometimes at great expense to people’s health and welfare.

Peaceful protest serves a purpose. Angry mobs scare me; they serve only to fuel the anger. Flashmobs are cool. Dancing mobs groovy. Another concept that’s seems to emanate from Paris…

Dancing: anywhere, anytime, with anyone. I imagine hundreds, thousands of people dancing, smiling, interacting with no words…

And what would they be listening to? Well, there are some French artists that come to mind:

M83′s new album Hurry Up, We’re Dreaming is one of my current favourite albums. They really nail the sound. The sound that might just propel you out into the streets dancing…

M83 continues in the great tradition of French electronica. Here’s AIR playing La Femme D’Argent live, in Paris. It’s a long track so if you don’t want to watch the video you could make yourself a caffè latte.

A tidbit from Parisians is that Café Procope is the oldest, continually operating restaurant in Paris. For the first time in Paris coffee was served in a specialized restaurant, rather than in a bar.

There’s the long history of Great French Artists. I won’t even attempt to list them all but one of my faves is the Yeh Yeh Girl: Françoise Hardy. Musician, model and actor…

And lastly Serge Gainbourgh and Jane Birkin singing the infamous (banned by the BBC!) Je T’aime.. Moi Non Plus:

Serge Gainsbourgh, musician, actor and director, is an icon in France and still a big influence in popular music (e.g. AIR). Jane Birkin, an English singer and actor, was in a relationship with Gainsbourgh from 1968 – 1980. Their child, Charlotte, is an actress and musician. Just last week we watched the film 21 Grams in which Charlotte Gainsbourgh has a feature role as the girlfriend of Sean Penn’s character, Paul.

I could rattle on forever about French culture but I’ll restrict myself to a few final observations about our time in Paris. Although we were only there a few days I was a sponge, soaking up every little thing. We wandered out from our hotel room on our first night. Sue was a bit worried about the way I just headed off, with no real idea of where we were headed except that the Seine was somewhere in front of us.

Walking Walking

Paris, like many European cities, is rich in graffiti.

Paris Graffiti

Moveable Feast

We did fine. We found Notre Dame. Saw the Seine at night with the Eiffel Tower in the distance.

Happy in Paris

And if you want to see art in museums and galleries… well, this is one of the best cities in the world to visit. And for this reason alone one could spend weeks in Paris. Or simply move there as so many artists have done.

Louvre Pyramid

I may have spent too much time in the Louvre. I missed the D’Orsay with all it’s Impressionist, Post-Impressionist paintings. Which may be a reason to return. However, the Louvre has much to offer. There’s the Mona Lisa…

Crowds Gather

Personally of Da Vinci’s paintings I was more attracted to The Virgin and Child with Saint Anne.

Getting Close to the Work

The Louvre is a large museum. Some of the artworks are also large. Such as this painting by Jacques Louis David: The Coronation of Napoleon.

Getting Close to the Emperor Napoleon Crowning Himself

And some are quite petit.

The Lacemaker

Vermeer’s The Lacemaker was a highlight for me. While in Paris I read an interview with a Louvre employee who mentioned it was her favourite painting so I sought it out. Yes, if I worked in the Louvre, or even lived in Paris, I’d drift by The Lacemaker frequently.

I also visited the Centre Pompidou, an amazing building with a huge collection of modern art.

The Rhino's View

An Art Education

What a great educational experience for children: being exposed to modern art at an early age. Especially art that many consider ‘difficult’, such as that shown here: Infiltration for Piano by Joseph Beuys.

Although I missed the D’Orsay I sought out and found the Musée Picasso. At the time of my visit there was a large installation by Daniel Buren.

Musée Picasso with Le Coupure

Even smaller children gaining an invaluable experience of art. I’ve seen a number of Picasso pieces in various museums and galleries but visiting the Musée Picasso was huge. The collection was created using artworks given to France by Picasso’s family to pay his tax debt. And what a collection it is.

But we were only in Paris for two days and how much can one pack in? Not a lot I’m afraid. We did trek off one evening to the Eiffel Tower.

City of Light

The trek itself was entertaining, but long. So we caught the Metro back to our hotel. Perhaps it’s because I’m a country boy but I love riding the trains and subways. More on that another day though.

Paris… I’ll be back. You’ll still be there I’m sure. You’ve been around for a long time.

Building Notre Dame

And, hopefully, you’ll be there for years to come…. (even if the Nat Geo chooses you as a vision of the demise of humanity).

Apocalypse de Paris

In the meantime I’ll groove to the music, look and look at the art, drink French roast, remember the smell of fresh French baguettes, cheese, wine….

Au revoir Paris! (and I’ll try to improve my French language skills!)

Au Revoir!

What brought these thoughts on when there’s no snow in sight?

First I watched Let the Right One In, the Swedish vampire flick (remember… I watched/reviewed Let Me In, the American version of the same story, in my last post).

Let the Right One In

The film opens and closes with a shot of blowing falling snow, partially revealed in the darkness by a light. The shot reminded me of David Lynch’s shots trees in the wind; very evocative and eerie. At first viewing I enjoyed Let the Right One In more than Let Me In. Now, having watched both films twice, I still prefer the Swedish version but find each has its own strengths and weaknesses.

I liked the overall feel of Let the Right One In slightly more. It’s subtler, has more nuance and the characters are not quite as stereotypical. I especially liked the protagonist, the young vampire Eli, more. Physically her large eyes, dark hair and ability to be appear both young and old at the same time suited her role. Although she didn’t have the benefit of the special effects used in the American version Eli was more bestial than Abby. I also thought the actor playing the boy, Oskar, with his blond hair and pale skin added to the perception of timidity – he almost faded away in the bleakness. I found the other characters interesting and less glamorous than their Hollywood counterparts, although the American version certainly wasn’t overly glamorous. The sexual ambiguity of some of the characters also added some mystery: what’s the relationship of Eli and her enabler? is Lacke and Gini’s relationship fueled by cocaine ? how does Oskar feel about his father being gay? A brief flash of Eli’s scarred pubic area supports her assertion she wasn’t a girl but is never explained (apparently it is in the book). There’s a grittiness in all that the Swedish snow that the American version lacked.

Let the Right One In presented the contrasting themes of young/old love, good/evil, light/dark, innocence/worldliness in a more evocative, subtle manner. But I’d still recommend watching both films as they each have an interesting, albeit similar, take on the story. Next I’d like to read the book and discover what was left out of the movies. Rating: 9/10

I also watched the Hurt Locker, a film I’ve passed by thinking it yet another Hollywood war film. I found it to be a powerful story with strong characters that prompted reflecting on what makes us tick. But it had no snow in it, so I’m not going to discuss it here.  Rating: 9/10

Back to the snow…

I was asked by a paper to submit some photos for publication for their Christmas issue and so have spent some time going through my local snow photos (I’m not going to name the paper just in case they decide not to use one the photos ;o). It’s an interesting exercise, perusing images for a specific use. I’ve taken lots of photos of snow scenes but to choose one that’ll print in high contrast B/W and be appropriate for the season made the selection process both interesting and educational. I realized that if I want to have more ‘stock’ photos I’m going to need to set up shoots with specific themes in mind.

Here are the three I submitted (in order of my choice)  in full colour:

Tobogganing on Lively Peak

Leaving the Island

Fine Day for Sailing

Here’s a funny one that wasn’t in the running but is the follow-up to the top photo:

Whoa!

A couple of contenders that didn’t make the cut:

Roe Lake in the Snow

Keeping Warm

and then a few snowy photos that I just generally like:

Eagle on Snow-Laden Tree

Looking South at Night

Tug in Snowstorm

Snowy Thieves Bay

Trees, Snow, Sun

Trees, Snow, Discin'

Random Acts of Snow

Oak in the Snow

Yep, that oak tree again. Everytime we go up Mount Norman I photograph it so of course there’s a few of it in the snow.

Somebody mentioned it might snow next week…. (nothing to do with my thoughts!)

Night Visitors

In daylight things looked better.

By Daylight

But I started staying up later and later into the dark night and seeing less daylight.

Twilight

Fecund nature persists in filling any void.

Window on the World

The horror, the horror…

Blood Seeps

Visions in the darkness, gathering around the glow in the dark…

Movies

Shaun of the Dead

Shaun of the Dead (2004) gets air play in our home and is now a Halloween classic. What better way to start the week?

(Well…  I think we may have watched the 1958 Hammer Dracula with Christopher Lee and Peter Cushing earlier. Sue fell asleep. Despite having its moments it is more a historical curiosity than a great vampire flick. Followed quickly by Shaun…)

Actors Simon Pegg, Nick Frost and directer/writer  Edgar Wright, take zombies to town, somehow always ending up back at the local. A story of friendship, family and redeemed love facing the undead, who appear from the hazy edges of the roommates’ messy lives. The belly laughs and shocks alternate as friends and family are bit, eaten stabbed, shot; becoming either dead or undead. Using their unique talents (improvising a ‘zombie walk’ so as to blend in with the crowd) they persevere until their final haven, the pub, disintegrates around them. Zombies are not so cuddly cute when there are hundreds of them slathering after your innards. Rating: 9/10

Also highly recommended and by much the same people: Hot Fuzz (2007) which may, or may not be, even funnier than Shaun. I watch both these films again and again.They’re well written, clever and over-the-top funny. Kinda same, same but different is Paul with Simon Pegg, Nick Frost, Seth Rogen, directed by Greg Mottola. A wee alien turns a couple of traveling comics geeks lives upside-down and sideways in this surreal road trip. Once again some over-the-top performances and lots of fun (long as you don’t mind ‘filthy’ language).

Repulsion

Repulsion (1965) was found on Netflix while casting about for thrillers. Once again Sue lost interest, and pretty much summed it up as “One of those films about psychotic frigid killer bitches”. Repulsion, directed by Roman Polanski, looks very ’65 and suffers the fate of innovation. Many of its once cutting edge moves have now been so used that the film looks like a Film Studies feature. Rating: 6.5/10

Attack the Block

Luckily we found Attack the Block (2011) which comes from the same English quirkiness as Shaun etc. and the Misfits TV series. Loud, action packed with empathetic characters in a hysterical melding of cultural mythologies. I loved the simple form of the aliens. They reminded me of Stephen King’s Langoliers: dark, vaguely glimpsed, loud and  ferocious carnivores; with simple needs. A small band of youth and some acquaintances come between the aliens and their desire. Plenty of action packed fun and witty dialogue. Rating: 8/10

Bram Stokers Dracula

Another Halloween classic: Bram Stoker’s Dracula (1992). So baroque, so lush, such bad accents… (could Coppola not have found some attractive young English actors for those roles?). I love the colours, textures and the raw flicker around the edges. Dracula in all his vamping glory, consumed by love. This film’s like a big, juicy steak… with some disconcertingly green bits. Rating: 9/10

Let Me In

On Halloween, after the sun had set, I watched Let Me In (2010). I’ve read a couple of blurbs about the film and understand it’s the American remake of Let the Right One In (which I’m going to watch tonight, review next week). The price was right though and I decided I’d watch the  re-make first. Especially as the remake also gets good reviews. I enjoyed the twists on vampire legend. Having such young protagonists lent the film a pre-teen, puppy-love innocence. But that’s also the age where bullies  and peeping-toms lurk.. With a nod to Rear Window we meet our young man who’s age of anxiety is about to take a sudden turn. Grisly violence doesn’t  come between the friends. Instead, it may even be a transforming and lovable quality. Rating: 8.5/10 (I may have to leave some room at the top for the original)

Planet Terror

And to top the week off: Planet Terror (2007). The UK spawned Shaun of the Dead  and America dropped Planet Terror. I favour Rodriquez’s half of the Grindhouse duo over Tarantino’s Death Proof, though it’s a close call. It’s a roller coaster ride as the quality of life goes from bad to nasty in a remote Texas community. Zombies feature, but may be the least of the troubles. An uncredited Bruce Willis’s Lt. Muldoon wreaks military mayhem whilst attempting to control the bio meltdown. Rose McGowan’s Cherry Darling utilizes some of her many talents to help her along. All action, all technicolor, all grindhouse glory, and the best Texas barbeque. Rating: 9.5/10 (could it be a 10? maybe…)

Books

The Impossible Dead

Yes! The newest Ian Rankin novel! And I could I slowly savour it? No! I read it until I finished a few days later.  I traced the environs and ‘hoods of Edinburgh centered Scotland following a web of almost-forgotten history with new Rankin protagonist Malcolm Fox, of the Complaints department. Similar to a certain other detective, whose presence is felt but not mentioned by name, Fox follows his instincts, trying to fathom the connections and how high they might go. I don’t think Fox has reached the top of his game yet but he’s getting there quickly. Rating: 8/10

Burma Chronicles

In preparation for our travels to SEAsia this coming year I got a copy of Guy DeLisle’s Burma Chronicles, an illustrated journal of his year in Burma, along with his NGO-employed wife and their young son. DeLisle’s simple, yet precise, style and storytelling drew me into his wryly observed life. Burma: the good, the bad and the really ugly. Bits I recognized from my own experiences in SEAsia. Some bits I’m glad I’ve missed so far and am warned off. Best of all the book reminded me of those special moments when wandering into someone else’s life and looking around in amazement. Rating: 9/10

From Outta the Sketchbook

Halloween Sketches

The thing in the top centre is an attempt at anthropomorphic building design. I’m rather fond of the little critter to its right though.

And More…

I added, and upgraded, photos in the USA section of my Travel Photography section.

Plugging away and working on my multi-tasking capabilities :–!

Here on Pender Island it’s been a mix of sun and rain. The evenings are getting cooler and the days shorter but the Fall colours are wonderful and the air’s fresh.

I’ve been working on my website updates. The newest section is Performance featuring photos of musicians and actors.

A new addition to the  revisioned album covers:

Zorba the Greek

A reflection on the current state of the economy in Greece.

A few photos from the past week:

Goat at Dan's Farmstand

Roe Lake Colours

Elegant Mushroom

I photograph photographers. I find their intent poses interesting. Sometimes I photograph photographers doing weird, or even rude, things. In the following two photos we were lounging on the rocks in Beacon Hill Park when a photographer, bearing a new looking camera, and his model appeared on the next knoll. Initially I was attracted by the poses. But then the dialogue caught my attention. He spoke of himself as the Photographer and she was his Model. I don’t think they’d met before that day. Then he got her into the corset. It just seemed to be getting weirder by the minute. I couldn’t resist. The last shot I took he’s looking directly at me and she’s laying on the ground at his feet. Flashback to the film Blow Up.

The Photographer

The Model

Which naturally leads to the  issue of photography and privacy:

Crystal Court CCTV

Chinatown CCTV

I’ve started a new sketchbook: my first Moleskin. I wasn’t sure how I’d like the paper’s colour and surface but so far it’s working well with the Staedtler pigment liner pens. I’ve been using pencils on paper for so long I thought it was time for a change.

Two Page BC Ferries Spread

OK – I’m a voyeur, with a camera or a pen. I can sit and watch people forever. But I’m not a sneak about it; no telephoto lens, no hiding in the bushes. So far I haven’t been punched. Don’t get any ideas though OK!

Books

I'll See You in My Dreams

I’ve read many of local author William (Bill) Deverell’s books. And not just because he’s local. I’ve enjoyed the series featuring the trials and tribulations of Arthur Beauchamp. The wry humour,  foibles of  an  aging protagonist, quotes from the classics and local colour plus clever plots make for great reads. I’ll See You in My Dreams flashes back to one of Arthur Beauchamp’s early cases, from 1962, set in Vancouver. We see a city in transition, from an industrial to cultural mecca (some new poet from Montreal, by name of Cohen, is giving a reading in a coffeehouse). Arthur’s client is a First Nation’s man, a former inmate of a residential school. He’s a young rebel, full of intelligence and passion, angry at the racist system. He’s Arthur’s first client accused of murder and the battle for justice isn’t an easy one. The second half of the book flashes forward to 2011 when Arthur is drawn back to the case, by circumstances and his conscience. The surprise ending is so logical I was left wondering why I hadn’t seen it coming. Rating: 8/10

Movies

Duck, You Sucker

Finally I saw Duck, You Sucker (aka A Fist Full of Dynamite or Once Upon a Revolution), the second of Sergio Leaone’s epic trilogy which started with Once Upon a Time in the West and finished with Once Upon a Time in America. I really don’t know why it took me so long. The Good, The Bad and The Ugly is one of my all-time favourite films and Once Upon a Time in America is one of the best gangster films ever. Duck You Sucker, Leone’s last Western, carries on the his tradition of style over substance. A couple of times I was wondering what the heck was going on as the action seemed to skip over relevant details but the beautiful shots (camera, not gun) and cinematography kept me entranced. Some of the scenes reminded me of Goya’s paintings of the wartime massacres in Spain (which I later discovered to be an influence on Leone). Although there are revolutionary politics aplenty (including a quote from Chairman Mao as the movie opens) Leone stated it’s a film about friendship, not politics. I liked James Coburn as the lead although I think Eli Wallach would’ve made a better Mexican bandit than Rod Steiger. For some interesting trivia about the film check out: imdb.com Rating: 8/10

La Femme Nikita

Having recently seen Hanna, and not thinking much of it, I decided I’d watch two films which I thought Hanna borrowed from, but didn’t measure up to. That both films are by Luc Bresson seemed apt as he’s another filmmaker who relishes style over substance. We watched Leon: The Professional a couple of weeks ago and it’s stood the test of time well. Jean Reno is brilliant and Natalie Portman demonstrates a dramatic flair that’ll carry her past the horrendous Star Wars prequel trilogy. But back to La Femme Nikita. How many times have I seen this film? I don’t really know. It’s got so much style and one of the great female film heroes. I really like Nikita’s transition from nihilist street punk to glamourous assassin and her attempt at a ‘normal’ life. Plus it’s got one of the greatest endings… Rating: 8.5/10

Aliens

It’s that time of year: Halloween, Day of the Dead… and scary movies are in order. We watched Alien a couple of weeks ago; which means that we had to watch Aliens also. Alien is still scary, even when you know exactly what is happening. It’s so darned atmospheric. Aliens is another scary thing altogether. I generally don’t like sci-fi that features overtly militaristic characters that look and act like Marines (Stargate never appealed to me for that reason). Marines are just fine in earthbound war films but I have issues with them in space. However, in Aliens, despite some misgivings, they work for me. They’re tough, they’re obnoxious, they’re prone to nervous breakdowns (even before they see the momma alien). Of course the best part of both films is Ripley. Ripley set the bar high for strong female leads. Too bad the following sequels sucked. Rating: 9/10

TV (via the internet)

The Walking Dead

We watched the entire first season over three nights. Despite some promise I have to say ‘Meh’. Zombies rock (and drool). But why can’t the protagonist shed his stupid cop uniform? Does he think anybody, especially the zombies, will respect it? And what’s with going on these insanely stupid missions to the city? The last place I’d go in times of cataclysmic disaster is a city. Look at the poster: everybody else was leaving the city and our lone hero is mindlessly riding into it. There were some nice moments and some of the other characters were promising (I liked the young Korean guy – the one who called the sheriff a ‘dumbass’). Just another American TV show that might’ve been pretty good, messed up by stupid plotlines and silly characters.  Rating: 4/10

(We watched Shaun of the Dead last night. Now there’s a brilliant zombie show! More on that next week after a few more scary movies.)

Music

Hurry Up, We're Dreaming

M83: Hurry Up, We’re Dreaming Soundtrack to my week. Yes, I really like M83′s latest. It’s vast, it’s anthemic, it’s got a groove and it’s good fun. The French do this kind of symphonic synth music so well (e.g. AIR). For more info: allmusic.com/artist/m83-p561410 Rating: 9/10

Days

Real Estate: Days  Really lovely harmonies, jangly guitars. A joy to listen to. For more info: allmusic.com/artist/real-estate-p884392 Rating: 8/10

This isn’t an official video but the music is all their’s:

Yep, in an effort to kickstart my sketching process I’m going to start publishing my sketchbook noodlings.

This last little book I bought in Edinburgh while traveling in Europe 2008 – 2009. Since then it’s also traveled to SEAsia (twice) and been handy while at home.

I’m trying to get back into a daily habit with my sketchbooks. And a weekly habit with my blog.

Here are a 18 scans from my sketchbook (double page spreads you can click on for larger image). Please feel free to comment… feedback is a great thing!

Train Car Somewhere in Italy

Reflections on Greek Archeology

Abstraction on Train Ride

Fido in the Sun

Our Front Yard

Vietnam: Food Label Collage

Vientiane Restaurant

Rabbit Island, Cambodia

Beach Scene

Value Village/Queen of Cumberland

Multi-Coloured Pencil

Music and Words

Mesh and Grid, Home

View of Salt Spring Island

Lupine at Art Show

Car Dashboard etc.

Okanagan Lake

Driving Through the Drylands

This is by no means an attempt at literary criticism. No deconstruction. No Post-Lacanian analysis. Just a few personal opinions on books I’ve read since March or so. There are a heap of books to mention so I’ll try to keep the comments brief and to the point.

Times have changed and for Christmas last year we got an Amazon Kindle. Originally the idea was to cut down on luggage weight when travelling but we’ve been using the Kindle a lot. It’s convenient when reading in bed (it can be held, and pages turned, with one hand) and when a book’s finished another can be downloaded right away. Especially useful if one’s having insomnia! Plus, in our small home books can be seen gradually taking over; we need the space!

But I still love physical books and happily read in both media. Let’s start with the traditional printed, analog, books:

An Illustrated Life; Danny Gregory: How Books

An Illustrated Life

This book inspired me. It’s a compendium of the sketchbook samples from 50 artists, illustrators and designers. Each person offers many examples from their sketchbooks plus some written insight into the how, why and where of their sketchbook. I’ve used sketchbooks for years but this book has inspired me to draw more often and to explore more media in my books. Highly recommended for everybody! (we’re all artists, sometimes we just need to release that talent.) Rating: 9/10

Paris 1919 : Six Months that Changed the World; Margaret MacMillan; Random House

Paris 1919

I’m a history buff. I especially enjoy books that take a period and provide  comprehensive insights into the W5 (why, where, who, when, what). I had some inkling about how the Treaty of Versailles and other post WWI treaties shaped our modern world but Paris 1919 describes in detail how a small group of men and their attendant advisors and sycophants created the beginnings of a political mess. The rise of Nazi Germany, the conflicts in the Middle East and Eastern Europe, even the Japanese/Chinese antagonisms were all advanced by the post WWI treaties. And, of course, who was going to pay any attention to a lowly dishwasher named Ho Chi Minh who tried to speak for the interests of Indochina? Rating: 9/10

On the Grand Trunk Road; Steve Coll; Penquin

On the Grand Trunk Road

Contemporary history with a focus on the late 20th century  and South Asia (India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Nepal and Afghanistan). Steve Coll traveled in and reported from South Asia for the Washington Post. As a reporter for a respected newspaper he had access to many people and places. He not only spoke to leaders (some of whom are still alive, some of whom have been assassinated) but to people in the street. The post-colonial politics and First World  pressures have created enormous problems in South Asia where age old political, cultural and religious divisions continue to broil under the hot sun. At times funny, horrific and frequently revealing this book helps explain a complex situation. Although originally published in the mid-90′s the author has added a foreword and epilogue that update it to the post 9/11 world. Rating: 9/10

The Golden Spruce; John Vallant; Vintage Canada

The Golden Spruce

It’s took me awhile to get around to reading The Golden Spruce. Mainly because I knew how it ended and I knew I’d be depressed. Although sad,  it is an instructive tale of environmentalism taken to an extreme. The Golden Spruce tells the story of a hard core logger turned hard core defender of the forests (Grant Hadwin); of a proud nation with an incredible culture (the Haida); and the destructive history of an industry (logging). This book should be on the curriculum of all BC high schools. Rating: 8/10

The Colour of My Dreams : The Surrealist Revolution in Art; Dawn Ades (editor); Vancouver Art Gallery

The Colour of My Dreams

In my late teens a local artist turned me onto surrealism via Salvador Dali. Over the years I lost interest in the movement, especially as many of my teachers disdained the movement and especially Dali. As I visited more museums and galleries I found other surrealist artists whose work I appreciated. So when The Colour of my Dreams exhibition came to the Vancouver Art Gallery we went to see it. Rather than focussing on the popular icons of Surrealism the exhibition contained works large and small, in a variety of media and zeroed in on an important connection: NorthWest Coast aboriginal art. It was a huge exhibition and hard to digest in only one visit. The accompanying catalog is valuable with its many essays provides insights into Surrealism along with reproductions of some of the artworks. Rating: 8/10

Just Kids; Patti Smith; HarperCollins

Just Kids

Patti Smith is a poet who eventually put her words to music. This autobiographical book focuses on her life and times with Robert Mapplethorpe, the brilliant photographer who died far too early. Beautifully written, Just Kids draws the reader into a (now gone) New York City milieu. Artists, poets, musicians,various hipsters and transgressors of The Norm populate the pages. Patti Smith soaks it up like a sponge and follows her own path while acutely observing the people, places and events around her. No celebrity posturing here. Patti Smith’s down to earth and her writing, always poetic, is direct, honest and a joy to read. Rating: 10/10

Barney’s Version; Mordecai Richler; Alfred A. Knopf Canada

Barney's Version

Although Barney’s world is not my world the novel has Everyman themes (eg. aging and reflection; truth and perception) that resonated. I enjoyed the narrator’s wry tone and witticisms. An aging man’s reflections on his somewhat tumultuous life Barney’s Version is a page turner with a satifying urban legend ending. Rating: 8/10

Pass Thru Fire : The Collected Lyrics; Lou Reed; De Capo Press

Pass Thru Fire

The title is pretty self explanatory. Lou Reed’s a poet. Like a few other musician/poets (eg Patti Smith, Leonard Cohen) it’s well worth reading his words on their own. Also this book is beautifully designed and typeset by Stefan Sagmeister, renowned NYC graphic designer. Rating: 9/10

The Bird Garden; Stephen W. Kress; DK

The Bird Garden

How to design your garden to be bird friendly! Having recently built a small pond I wanted to continue developing our property to be as bird and bee friendly as possible. Lots of good ideas and nicely illustrated. Rating: 8/10

Picasso: Creator and Destroyer; Arianna Stassinopouls Huffington; Simon and Shuster

I read an excerpt of this back in the 80s when it was published but never got around to fully reading it until I spotted it in the library this year. I knew Picasso’s bad boy rep and have previously read Françoise Gilot’s Life with Picasso. Huffington’s book was published after Picasso’s death, which is both good and bad. On the good side Gilot was interviewed and gave Huffington much personal material she’d left out of her own book. On the bad side it sometimes reads like a poison dagger exposé. Although I don’t think you can judge someone’s work by their personal life I found it helped explain some of the transitions in Picasso’s art (I’m no expert but have seen many of his works including the major collection at the Musée Picasso). It’s also a scary portrait of how one man can willingly destroy his various families and friends.  Rating: 7/10

And a couple of re-reads:

On Photography; Susan Sontag; Dell

On Photography

I first read Sontag’s collection of essays on photography about 20 years ago. It’s very interesting reading it now in the age of digital photography. I never completely agreed with all her ideas (eg. I don’t believe the camera brings us closer to the subject; I think it is a screen that filters reality and creates some distance from the subject). But she writes clearly and succinctly, something many theorists can’t, or won’t, do (I tried reading Roland Barthes’ Camera Obscura and so far have only managed to skim it). On Photography is thought provoking; which is reason enough for anybody serious about photography as an artform to read it. Rating: 8/10

Exit Music; Ian Rankin; Orion

Exit Music

The last of the Rebus series. Ian Rankin’s crime novels are the stick by which I measure all other contemporary crime novels. Few come up to his level (Elmore Leonard and James Ellroy, both American, are the only other two I’ve found as gripping and empathetic). Now Rankin is onto a new series with a new protagonist I look forward to his future books but still find myself plucking the Rebus books from the shelves and diving into the gray world of Edinburgh’s finest detective. Rating: 10/10

eBooks:

The Redbreast/Nemesis/The Devil’s Star/The Leopard/The Snowman/The Redeemer; Jo Nesbo; Vintage Digital

The Redbreast

Harry Hole is the Norwegian Rebus (but his name is more… eh… telling). I enjoyed these books (obviously: I read six of ‘em!). They kept me turning the pages; I found the characters engaging; the Scandanavian setting interesting and the overall arch of the series well done. My only gripe is I grew tired of the sex/violence combo which seemed to escalate with each book. Rating: 8/10

Jar City/The Draining Lake/Voices; Arnaldur Indridason; Vintage Digital

Jar City

And onto Iceland… these books I found slightly less interesting. Mainly because the pace wasn’t sustained as the protagonist contemplated his dysfunctional family life. Also I hate it when I find myself thinking “Get with it man. You’re missing something big here!” The three are not equal. I’d rate The Draining Lake highest at: 6/10

Pattern Recognition/Zero History; William Gibson; Putnam Adult

Zero History

I read Spook Country a few years ago and enjoyed it. I’ve been a Gibson fan since Neuromancer and read most of his books but kinda lost interest around Virtual Light. Spook Country got me interested again and when Zero History came out in 2010 I waited for the Kindle edition (it just seemed fitting). Then I read the first of the Blue Ant trilogy, Pattern Recognition. The three are all brilliant. Once again Gibson’s created a first rate female protagonist: Cayce Pollard. She’s smart, perceptive and has an interesting fashion sense, which is why Blue Ant keeps hiring her to track down new phenomena. Gibson has a quirky sense of humour and a distinct voice which gives his novels a cool edge. I’m a fan. Rating: 9/10

A Song of Ice and Fire (Books One, Two and Three); George R. R. Martin; Amazon Digital

A Song of Ice and Fire

I saw some of The Game of Thrones on TV and thought I’d try the books. The first of A Song of Ice and Fire series (The Game of Thrones) got me hooked. Although the characters are a bit one dimensional I liked that the plot took interesting turns and sympathetic characters could die. Sometimes I found the descriptions of clothing or dinners a bit of a drag but I kept going. Until Book Three (A Storm of Swords). Then I found I was losing interest as the story dragged on with very little catharsis. The story of Daenerys continued to interest me but the others plodded along with gratuitous plot twists which frustrated me. While some have compared Martin to Tolkien I think his series lacks the focus and interest of Lord of the Rings. Rating: 7/10

The Player of Games; Iain Banks; Amazon Digital

The Player of Games

A few years ago I bought Banks’ Matter for reading on a long plane journey. It took me awhile to finish but it was an interesting ride. If you like your heros to survive and overcome evil this is not the book for you. While browsing the Kindle Store one night for reading material I looked at Banks’ Culture series. I noted that one, The Player of Games, was reader recommended as being more lighthearted and positive than many of his other books. It took me a few chapters to get into the setting, the language and the characters but once hooked I was really into the book. Like any good writing this transcends its genre (sci-fi). Rating: 9/10

I think I’ll be reviewing books as I read them from now on! Stay tuned …

Passing Ferries in the Rain

The drive through the Fraser Valley was extremely wet. So wet traffic slowed to 7o kph, where normally people drive at 100 -120.

On the (Wet) Road

We made for Skihist campground outside Lytton as I remembered it being a dry landscape. We arrived at dusk and Sue whipped up dinner.

Dinner at Dusk

A smattering of rain in the night left no trace of dampness on our tent in the morning.

A Lovely Morning!

I love the dry landscape, with its pine trees, sagebrush and the Thompson River rolling towards the Fraser River, the railway running beside the river.

View of the Thompson River

We backtracked to Lytton before continuing on.

The Changing Fraser Canyon

Since the construction of the Coquihalla Highway the Trans Canada Highway through the Fraser Canyon has become much quieter. We saw many closed businesses: hotels, motels, cafes and those funny little roadside attractions. Lytton proudly displayed an artifact of the railways that still pass this way.

Caboose at Lytton

We turned off Hwy 1 at Spences Bridge and took the much quieter, beautiful and winding Hwy 8 to Merritt. We stopped to admire an old railway bridge and for Sue to pick some sage.

Bridge Over the Nicola River

Sue Harvesting Sage

The car began to smell really good!

We continued south from Merritt to Princeton, still avoiding the busier highways.

Ranch Country

Old ranch houses, barns, trucks, cars and machinery add historical texture.

At Princeton we joined Highway 3 and headed east along the Similkameen River. Rain showers came and went but the weather was much improved over the previous day. We stopped at Bromley Rock and admired the river, the rock and variety of flora.

Sue on Sandbar at Bromley Rock

Rock at the Rock

We continued east to Osoyoos where we made camp at Haynes Point.

Campsite on Osoyoos Lake

Although Osoyoos is one of the driest, warmest places in Canada and Osoyoos Lake one of the warmest in the country the clouds persisted. Until the next morning when the sun finally broke through…

Morning Swim

and we went swimming right out our backdoor! A bit chilly, but swimmable.

Morning Sun on Our Wee Home

The View

The sun appeared/disappeared behind clouds and from all around us we could hear the popping of the guns used to scare birds from the fruit. Before leaving Haynes Point we stopped at the wetlands walk.

Viewing the Wetlands

The wetlands around Okanagan lakeshores has been reduced to about 4% of their original coverage. This bit provides a habitat for many species plus a stopover for migrating birds.

We visited the Desert Centre to have a closer look at this northern fringe of the Sonara Desert ecosystem that carries on south to Mexico.

Entrance to the Desert Centre

We started with their indoor exhibition space and then walked the boardwalk, blasted by a strong warm wind, taking a close look at the desert landscape.

The Desert Society has built birdhouses and burrows to encourage rare species to stick around or, in some cases, to return.

Bird Houses

As we walked we continued to hear the pop pop of bird guns from the neighbouring green orchards.

Desert and Orchards

Meanwhile the wind continued to drive the clouds away.

C'mon Sun!

We headed north, towards Okanagan Lake. We stopped for a new camp stove (our old one was becoming dangerous) and a bottle of wine (after all, this is Canada’s wine country).

We checked out various campsites and decided on the Okanagan Lake campground as it’s on the lake and was almost desserted. Of course a few of the ubiquitous RVs lumbered about.

How Many Wheels?

Our lakeside campsite was so nice we decided to stay two nights.

Relaxing by the Lake

While there we kayaked and swam. OK, Sue swam more than me. The water wasn’t really all that warm.

Sue Admiring the View from the Water

Our banana-like kayak must have given the fish an eyeful.

Fish's View of Kayak

The south campground was closed so we went there to swim and scream.

Sue, Mostly Underwater

We visited nearby Peachland and spent a few hours walking the waterfront promenade. Along the way we saw some interesting signs.

Appearing: The Hip Replacements Band

Give the People What They Want

And we checked out the houses. This freshly renovated Miami style unit is listed for a cool $1M.

Waterfront Style

Maybe this kinda similarly styled one would go for less?

(Post) Modern (House)

We also stopped at Hardy River and Falls to see the Kokanee spawning.

Hardy Falls

Spawning Kokanee

Yes, not only a beer, but a landlocked salmon, related to the ocean going Sockeye.

In the evenings we’d watch the stars come out over Peachland and the lake.

Fall Night Fall

We continued north to Kelowna, the town where I lived the third longest in my life (4 or 5 years when very small).

The Bridge and the Beach

After a walk along the waterfront we went in search of one of my childhood homes. Although some of the houses looked familiar I wasn’t positive which we’d lived in but I enjoyed the nostalgia of being in a childhood neighbourhood. Especially the back alley.

Childhood Revisited

Walking back to the car we noticed that the City of Kelowna has a wicked sense of humour.

Walk or... ???

Go Away?

Funny though…. Ogopogo wasn’t as big as I remembered….

A Smaller Ogopogo

From Kelowna we headed east and south on Hwy 33, passing through the community of Joe Rich (which seemed to go on forever, but with little habitation).

Welcome to Joe Rich Stewie!

What a change in the landscape by heading just over hills from the lake. Green trees growing thickly until we were way down the Kettle Valley.

Sue was a bit nervous when we drove into the Kettle River campgrounds; they were almost desserted and a bit spooky. At first all we saw was one RV, parked out in the middle of an open area in the blazing sun, its occupants huddled under a beach umbrella.

The Lone RV in the Forest

However, it turned out that there were other people about. We found a nice site near the river and went for an afternoon walk exploring the river and former railway tracks (now the famous Kettle Valley Rail Trail).

Sue on the Kettle Valley Rail Trail

We crossed the old rail bridge and considered swimming but the waters, although beautiful, were chilly.

River, Bridge and Photographer

Wanna Dive?

Into This?

Later, when sitting down by the river, I noticed that Canada’s national rodent had been busy across the way so I waded across for a look-see.

Evidence

The next morning we were up early and right away noticed how cool it was compared to the Okanagan Valley. We decided we’d drive to Manning Park and do a bit of hiking in the Cascades before heading home.

Road Photo

Yep, I do shoot backwards out the window while driving!

Go West!

But sometimes I’ll ask Sue to get the photo.

Sign o' the Time

Another Sign o' the Time

We had made a big loop back to Osoyoos. That long spit sticking out into the lake is Haynes Point where we’d camped a few nights previously.

View to Osoyoos Lake

We stopped at the Nk’Mip (inka meep) Winery (owned by a local First Nations band) to buy more of their excellent wines. Although not wine aficionados we enjoy a glass sometimes and when in wine country…

Nk'Mip Winery Store

And we learned the local aboriginal word for ‘Speed Bump’.

Speed Bump Translated

At this point, if I’d been smart, I would’ve checked the weather reports before leaving Osoyoos. But onwards we went…

Fruit Stand Stop

stopping for fruit and yet more wine on our way west.

NO NATIONAL PARK! (more machines though)

We kept seeing these No Park signs near Keremeos. Apparently about a third of the population is against having a national park protecting the grasslands ecosystem, and they’re quite vocal about it.

But: that ‘s all the photos. As we hit Manning Park the wind started howling and the rain rolled in. The alpine roads were closed, various campgrounds shut for the season. We decided we might as well try making the ferry links for home. Thankfully there was a 6pm sailing for Swartz Bay (not on the schedule), and we made it home after roaring down the Fraser Valley at 12okph (poor little Suzuki!). Until we hit Surrey. Who’s idea was it to put the highway through Surrey? Maybe that new bypass will solve the traffic jam problem there.

All in all though we had a great time. The tent never got wet. It was hot and sunny enough to make it seem like a real late summer holiday. Now to hunker down for Fall and a bit of Winter before heading way westwards to South East Asia in January!

Ready to Go

Yesterday I deconstructed our old hide-a-bed which had been taking up space in one of our sheds. It took 2-3 hours, mostly pulling the hundreds of staples that held the fabric and foam to the wood substructure. Only four screws in the whole unit; they held the metal folding bed frame to the wood. I think most of the weight of hide-a-beds is in the metal frame and the staples.

I listened to music via my iPod while taking it apart but random thoughts passed through my mind also. I remembered the strange obsessive behaviour of a neighbour from almost 40 years ago. I was young, freshly married and my then-wife was pregnant with our first child. We lived downstairs from her sister and sister’s boyfriend. We had access to the basement but I don’t remember using it for much, except sometimes we’d check out what the neighbour was up to. He and his mother lived together in a formidably immaculate house and gardens. He was probably about 50ish. We knew they were obsessive about their garden as they had green painted thin spikes in their shrubs. If a dog were to lift its leg to pee on a shrub it would get a sharp warning not to be so bold. From the basement window we could watch the son deconstruct couches he’d brought home. He must have obtained them at garage sales or thrift stores. He would take them apart and carefully cut all the fabric into 3 or 4 inch squares. All the wood and metal parts would be cut into short pieces. As he took the couches apart and cut them up he’d bag everything: metal in one bag, fabric into another etc.

There is something fascinating about deconstruction. I didn’t really enjoy pulling the hundreds of staples out of the hide-a-bed; it was rather tedious and annoying really. But cutting the fabric was kind of cool.

Cutting Away the Fabric

It made me think of customs agents at the border cutting into people’s cars searching for contraband. All very destructive. Or, to put it in more user-friendly terms: deconstructive.

I’ve a long history of deconstruction. As a child, a small boy, I loved toy guns. For Christmas 1959 my parents gave me a machine gun mounted on a tripod. Very cool. But within a year I’d taken it apart to see how it worked. I don’t recall getting into trouble for that. I must have though when I took the card table apart around that same Christmas. And I know I did when a friend and I finished deconstructing a small greenhouse at the house we rented. Several panes had broken in a storm and we took the rest out in an attempt to break the corners off diagonally. Probably not a safe project for a six year old.

Deconstruction projects seem to have been more successful for me than reconstruction projects. In Grade 9 Power Mechanics I just could not get the lawn mower engine back together and working until about the fourth try. First I got the pistons in the wrong way, then forgot to put oil in. Mechanical aptitude eludes me. Although I can now take the shrouding off our scooter and put it back on again with no left over screws. However, I still can’t figure out why it’s running rough.

But back to deconstruction.

Remains of a Projector

Recently I took apart a slide projector. The bulb was gone and they’re hard to find now. Plus I have 3 others, one of which I actually use once every few years when I need to look at some slides. Mainly I wanted the lens and to see what else might be reusable. But also there’s a quiet pleasure in easily removed screws. One after another. Much more satisfying than pulling staples. One of my favourite deconstructions was in the 80s I found several old teletype machines in a dumpster. I took one apart and used bits of it for a sculpture. I kept the keys for ages, thinking they’d make interesting earrings but never did get around to that project.

Although I haven’t done it for a few years I used to like taking my mountain bike apart. There’s something very beautiful about a bike frame on it’s own. I always put it back together though. I suppose that provided some redemption for not being good with power mechanics.

Tomorrow we’re taking the junked bits of the hide-a-bed to the dump. The metal frame will go to recycling. The wood frame I’m still undecided about. It may become an armature for a sculpture. It may become firewood, although that seems plain destructive. After all: someone put time into cutting and assembling it.

I remember listening to an American artist talk about how she’d built a concrete base for a mall sign and had embedded old appliances, like toasters, in it. She said people were really upset that she would abuse appliances that way. Even though they didn’t work people still thought they had value. Me, I’d take ‘em apart and photograph them. Then off the bits would go to recycling or, if there’s room, into a shed for future projects.

Sue’s 1964 Pontiac Laurentian is still sitting out front on blocks. What to do? What to do?